Joker Tailcoat Sewing Tutorial – Required Materials

FABRIC

* Purple wool suiting = 3 yards

Purple wool fabric

* Purple lining fabric = 3 yards

Joker waistcoat sewing tutorial - Obsessive Costuming Dude

* Mediumweight hair canvas = 1 yard

Medium hair canvas - B. Black & Sons

* French canvas interfacing = ½ yard

Heavy French canvas - B. Black & Sons

* Undercollar felt/melton = ¼ yard

Undercollar felt - B. Black & Sons

* Fusible hair canvas = 1 yard

Lightweight fusible interfacing - B. Black & Sons

* Lightweight fusible interfacing = 1 yard

Pellon black cotton fusible interfacing - Obsessive Costuming Dude

* Cotton flannel or batting = ½ yard

This will be used for the upper chest area.

I just used plain black cotton flannel, but you can use whatever color or print you like (and feel free to have some fun with this).

Lightweight cotton batting (such as that pictured to the right) also works fine.

* 1 yard of pocketing

Either of the options below should work well:

“Deluxe Polyester/Cotton Pocketing” (T401)

“Silesia Cotton Pocketing” (T41)

Alternatively, a lightweight cotton fabric such as muslin or quilting cotton will work fine.

NOTIONS, SUPPLIES, etc.

* 1 spool of purple thread

Joker tailcoat sewing tutorial - Obsessive Costuming Dude

* Purple waxed thread

You can buy regular thread and wax it yourself, or you can buy pre-waxed thread.

I use waxed silamide (2-ply nylon) thread from Wawak Sewing Supplies:

* Cotton basting thread

I use and recommend #40 basting thread, also from Wawak Sewing Supplies:

* ⅜” cotton twill tape

A single spool/roll should last for many, many projects like this!

* 6x ¾” fabric buttons

I suggest simply making your own fabric buttons using the same purple fabric as the coat, and a DIY button kit like this.

* 8x ⅝” fabric buttons

I again suggest making your own fabric buttons using purple coat fabric and a DIY button kit like this.

* 1 pair of shoulder pads

For the best results, I recommend either making your own custom shoulder pads, or using pre-made pads such as those available from B. Black and Sons:

(For shoulders with average slope, I suggest using the 6-ply pads. Increase or decrease the loft of the shoulder pad accordingly for sloped or square shoulders.)

* 1 pair of shoulder pads

(For shoulders with average slope, I suggest using the 6-ply pads. Increase or decrease the loft of the shoulder pad accordingly for sloped or square shoulders.)

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