As you’re aware, my Tailors Gone Wild Joker trousers sewing pattern includes ten graded sizing options, and ideally, one of them should be a perfect match to your body measurements.
However, while some costumers may find a perfect fit in one of the “default” pattern sizes (and I sincerely hope you do!), it is somewhat unlikely due to variations in height, weight, build, posture, musculature, and general physique.
Basically, people come in all shapes and sizes, and it’s impossible to make a pattern for something that will perfectly fit everyone – hence this portion of the tutorial, in which I’ll provide you with some fitting tips!
You may also find this free sewing lesson helpful, in which I discuss the two most common fitting issues and how to adjust for them. 🙂
Entire books have been written on the subject of pattern altering, fitting issues, and garment alterations, so I’ll only cover some of the most common fitting issues and how to adjust your sewing pattern for them if needed.
Most common fitting issues can be resolved using either of the following techniques, or a combination of the two.
HORIZONTAL FITTING
The first technique is making use of different pattern sizes in different areas of the body.
In this case, the primary areas in which this is likely to be most relevant are the waist and hips.
If one of your body measurements closely matches one pattern size, but another part of your body closely matches a different size, an ideal fit could probably be achieved by simply segueing between the two sizes.
This is accomplished by tapering the patterned seam lines from the first size into the second one.
TIP: When redrawing the edges of the pattern, a “hip curve” ruler is extremely helpful!
VERTICAL FITTING
The second fitting technique is in regard to vertical adjustments, rather than horizontal ones – i.e. adjusting for the height of the wearer, specifically regarding the length of the wearer’s legs and/or torso.
This involves making use of the lengthen/shorten lines on the printed pattern.
NOTE: On the Tailors Gone Wild Joker trousers sewing pattern, the two pairs of lengthen/shorten lines are approximately hip-level and knee level.
Naturally, some people will be taller while others are shorter; however, the additional height (or lack thereof) may be primarily located in different areas.
For example, even though two people might be the same height and taller than average, one might have longer legs, while the other has a longer torso. The pattern would need to be adjusted differently for each of these individuals.
To shorten the garment, simply fold the pattern paper upward at the lengthen/shorten lines, then back down again the appropriate distance away, or simply cut along the horizontal lines and overlap the two (upper and lower) portions however much is necessary. Straighten, curve, or taper the edges if needed.
To lengthen the garment, cut the pattern piece into two separate pieces along one of the horizontal lines.
Draw two parallel lines on a separate sheet of paper, however far apart the garment needs to be lengthened.
Insert the paper underneath the pattern pieces, pattern edges flush with the two lines you drew, and tape the pieces together.
Using a ruler and pencil/pen, connect the upper and lower edges of the pattern piece across the insert. Cut along these lines to form your new, lengthened pattern piece.
Obviously, the same adjustment needs to be made on all the appropriate pattern pieces for the trousers to go together properly!
For demonstrations of the processes I just described, check out the aforementioned free sewing lesson on basic pattern alterations. 🙂
If you found this sewing tutorial helpful, please support my costume research on Ko-Fi!
Every bar of gold-pressed latinum helps me produce more sewing/costuming resources like this. 🙂
